I
am filled today with an incredible sadness. Maybe something of the despair of the city has
gotten into me. Maybe I’m just
tired. Maybe it’s both.
I
find myself looking deeply into the eyes of the old people I pass on the street
to feel what they might feel. I enter
their window of hopelessness and despair.
I walk the streets today allowing myself to experience what it might
feel like to live in one of these filthy little alleyway apartments with rats
scurrying across the floor, and the smell of piss and sewage everywhere knowing
that this is all I will ever have.
There
is no way out. This is it. I don’t have opportunity for anything
different. I can’t make enough money to
even buy food or clothes, much less to get a passport to get out of this
place. There is no change coming
here. Nothing will ever be any different
than it is now and my whole existence is simply to try to survive another day.
It’s
a good practice and an incredible window to the reality that is here. I let myself spend some hours in this space
walking back and forth to my little room throughout the day until finally I
come across some music and I stop there for relief from my thoughts.
A
very handsome couple stands next to me chatting. She is a beautiful young woman and he’s a
very handsome tall man. She gives me his
hand, “Baila.. baila, el es mi hermano.. baila..” I am ready to dance and happy to oblige, but
apparently I don’t know this dance or I’m just nervous, and I feel like a dork
with two left feet. He is gentle and
kind and helps me, and she is my cheerleader.
The
three of us end up spending the whole night together walking, talking,
laughing, and sharing our hearts, stories and strangely our astrology. I am in love with them by the end of the
night, perhaps more her than him. She is
so bubbly, so adorably cute, so sassy and fun, so like me that I can’t help but
enjoy her wildness.
On
the way back to my place after sitting at the Malacon chatting for hours, we
come across a guitar player who serenades us and somehow entices me into some
freestyle hip hop over the top of his Latin grooves. We are all singing together, laughing and
falling in love. The guitar player and
my new girlfriend kiss in front of her brother, and I can tell he is not
impressed with his sister’s openness, but she is an untameable wild woman and
she just laughs at her brother’s scowls. I find my mind wandering in the midst of this comical drama unfolding.
Perhaps
one of the most fascinating contradictions to me here is this sense of
hopelessness and surrender that seems to create also this ability to shift into
gratitude and appreciation for things that we in the US often take for granted. Albeit it is indeed a sort of resigned
acceptance here, but somewhere in it, Cubans have found an ability to be at
peace in spite of their challenges, to find innovative solutions and to learn
something from it that we in the US would be wise to consider: the willingness
to stop complaining and find acceptance and peace regardless of the external
conditions. To appreciate the good
things and focus on them rather than wasting a lifetime complaining and being
pissed off about what is.
I’ve
been reading an incredible book, “Havana Real” by Yoani Sanchez, a woman here
in Cuba who started a blog called Generation Y.
It’s a fascinating read and has been giving me deep insight into Cuban
life from the perspective of someone who shares her story fearlessly in spite
of her oppression. She puts it this way,
“A widespread call to inaction, in the name of preserving mental hygiene, has
taken over Cubans’ ability to act. The
person who complains or demands is seen as “some kind of weirdo.””
People
here have learned to find gratitude even in the midst of a pile of shit. That to me is perhaps one of the things that
makes this island so special.
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